SVL Extension: Track Centerlines

Since I finished laying the foam table top, I was anxious to start transfering the trackplan from paper to the layout and see how it was going to fit. I first removed the backdrop to get easier access. Then, I started laying out the track centerlines. It wasn't long before I realized that some of the track was not going to fit as I planned it. Namely, where the end curve meets the 3 track area. I also wanted to improve the S-curves on the other end of that curve. So, I modifed the trackplan as shown (red circles).



From there, it was just a matter of drawing out the plan, test fitting turnouts, and carefully drawing good curve radiuses.

Take a look and see how it all flows. I'm am very happy with how it turned out.









Next, I will start laying cork. But, I have to cut my own first. More next time.

SVL Extension: Foam Tabletop

I added the foam tabletop to the extension. I used some leftover foam that I had saved from other projects. Some was green and some was pink. That is why it is two colors in the pictures below. The green is 1.5 inches thick and the pink is an inch. This gives me a 2.5 inch thick base to build on.

I attached the foam with tub & tile adhesive. I used this to attach the foam to the wood cross pieces and to add the second layer. The process was simple, cut a piece to fit, apply the adhesive, stick down the foam, and then add weight so it dries flat. I used model railroad magazines that I have in cardboard storage boxes but you can use anything you have on hand.

Now I am ready to start transferring the trackplan to the table surface in full size. I am anxious to see how things fit as I have drawn them on the plan.

You will also notice that I added cleats to support the fascia. A couple are not straight so I will address that but it will be covered later by the fascia.







Please let me know what you think so far.

SVL Extension: Pre-Wiring

I did a little work on the extension this weekend. Before I lay the foam on top of the benchwork, I decided that now would be a good time to run bus wires for the track wiring.

I drilled two holes in each cross piece approximately where the mainline will run. Then, I ran two wires, one through each hole. These are 14ga ROMEX wires used for house wiring. I stripped off the plastic covering and ran a white and black wire around the entire extension. I will tie the ends of these wires into the existing track bus later.

You will also noticed that I primed the backdrop.

Sorry if these pictures are a little fuzzy.





Next, I will start laying foam.

SVL Extension: Backdrop

Over the weekend, I was able to build the backdrop that runs down the middle of the pennisula. I used 1x2 pine to construct this. I made a frame and covered it with 1/8" hardboard. Construction is pretty straight forward as can be seen in the photo below. The two longer legs at each end will anchor it to the benchwork.



I covered the framework with 1/8" hardboard on both sides. I attached the hardboard with Liquid Nails construction adhesive. It was easier to attach it while the frame was laying on the floor. I laid one piece of hardboard on the floor, applied the adhesive, laid the frame down, applied more adhesive to the other side of the frame and laid the other piece of hardboard on top. Then, I weighted it all down until the adhesive set.

To attach it to the benchwork, I first cut two slots in the cross pieces so the legs of the backdrop would slide into the slot. Then, the whole backdrop is attached with screws to the cross pieces. Later, I will remove the backdrop and paint it with the sky color.

Here is how it looks installed.





Next up is a little pre-wiring. Stay tuned.

SVL Extension: Benchwork

I got started making the benchwork for the new extension. For the main layout I built box frames that were supported from the wall and a few legs. I decided that this type of benchwork construction would not work well for a free standing pennisula as I would have to use too many legs to support the framework. So, I decided to use the "L-Girder" style benchwork. With this design you have two main girders running the length of the pennisula and attach cross pieces to support the decking surface (which in my case will be foam). Two sets of legs will hold the whole thing up.

I also decided to rip a 4x8 sheet of 5/8" thick plywood into lumber-sized pieces instead of purchasing the same size regular lumber. I did this with the existing railroad and it has many advantages. It's cheaper than buying individual boards (for those who know me, this is very important) and because it's plywood, it doesn't warp as easily. The disadvantages are you have to cut it yourself and you can't screw into the edges very securely. I minimized the disadvantages as you will see shortly.

The first thing I did was rip the 4x8 sheet of 5/8" thick plywood into "boards". You could use 3/4" thick if you want but try not to use 1/2" (it's too hard to join on edge). You need an 8 foot cutting guide and a circular saw. I used a sheet metal stud found at the home center. Then I cut the "boards 4" wide by the 8 foot length. You need four pieces for the girders. Put wood glue on one edge and join two boards to form an "L". Next, drill pilot holes for coarse thread drywall screws and fasten it together. Do the same for the other girder. I then made my leg sets the same way but using 2" wide boards. Take a look at the pictures to see this in more detail.

The cross pieces that support the foam are made with a 4" wide plywood board and a 1x3 pine board. I used pine here because I would be screwing into the edge of these pieces and needed solid wood (these will not be glued). I also attached a 2x2 block at the bottom of each leg. This is so I could screw in a lag bolt that I can use to level the pennisula.

Hopefully, you can see from the pictures how it all comes together.







That's all there is to the benchwork. Next, I will make the backdrop that runs down the middle of the pennisula.